In case you missed my musings about Gaggan’s psychedelic curry, here it is. Ironically enough I’m flying to Bangkok this Thursday for a bucket list eating trip.

Life has been moving at the speed of light. I’ve failed to keep up my mission of Bitchen, which was to write for myself. *Singing song "Not Enough Time" by INXS right now. My brain becomes robotic every time I open Bitchen, as it’s so trained to write for work gigs. I’ve spent the summer trying to unlearn this habit, spending as much time outdoors, in the dirt, in the sea, in conversation with beautiful lovers and friends, in the kitchen, and anywhere else but glued to the screen.

Today I woke up thinking about Naples, Italy, so rolling with it. Last year I wrote a profile on Mission Pizza in Winston-Salem, North Carolina (and since I’ve been gone this year, he’s opened a new outpost in Asheville). Owner, Peyton Smith, has unsolicitedly taught me over in-depth conversations that it’s better to be unapologetically you in this life. You can read more about that from a restaurant owner’s standpoint above, however, today I’m here to talk you into planning an excessive pizza-eating trip to Naples, Italy.

This banter originally appeared underneath the article mentioned above but was later cut. To not feel so annoyed, as it took us a bit to gather our thoughts, I figured it was a perfect summer post for Bitchen:

Got Pizza Cravings? Book A Last-Minute Trip to Naples

In the South of the United States, Mission Pizza is where I go to curb Napoli pizza cravings but it’s wise to book a flight to Naples, Italy, to discover Neapolitan pizza in its birthplace. You’ll find it’s all about proper ingredients and time, and while everyone has their lists and opinions, as thousands of pizzerias dot the city, Mission Pizza owner, Peyton Smith, and pizza seeker and journalist, Jenn Rice, dish out a few not-to-miss pizzerias — plus where to stay once there. 

SLEEP:

Romeo Hotel

a swanky escape amidst the beautiful chaos of Naples is my go-to hotel when visiting for several reasons, one being its blissful rooftop where a pool with views of the Gulf of Naples and Mount Vesuvius and the most extravagant breakfast spread you’ll encounter (and yes, Neapolitan pizza slices make their way to sunrise festivities).

The deluxe harbor view room, with a floor-to-ceiling window with a sea view, is perfect for a water-loving Cancer sign. In Naples, my souvenir was a very tall, handsome Napoletano, who didn’t speak English. Dinner was riveting and amusing. 10/10 obsessed with the ultra-plush beds equipped to let even the wildest animals sleep in tranquility — and the walk-in shower is also a fun time for two.

It was at Il Comandante (now closed, le sigh) where I learned how important an in-season tomato is to Neopoliotan cuisine, by way of chef Salvatore Bianco’s “golden tomato” — a dish composed of a stunning tomato is cooked and blanketed in a 24 karat gold sheet. The hotel is within walking distance to a few of my favorite pizza spots and a five-minute stroll to the port, where you can take a ferry to Ischia (more on Ischia soon as it’s bliss). *Il Ristorante, led by Alain Ducasse, opened recently in Il Comandante’s place

A SUBJECTIVE NAPLES, ITALY PIZZA EATING GUIDE:

Pizzeria Brandi

A crossover agreement is Brandi. Many will say Sorbilo but this is it for me. “A great pizzeria, hiding in plain sight in a highly trafficked tourist area just off of Via Chiaia, near Piazza Plebiscito,” says Smith. It’s allegedly where Pizza Margherita was invented so ordering is an obvious choice. “The pizza here is baked harder than most in Napoli, with more color and more char, yet typical in the way it's generously topped, resulting in a proper Neapolitan flop and plenty of juice on the plate to use the crust as scarpetta.” 

50 Kalò

“This brand has become quite celebrated for its modern interpretation of pizza that's unlikely to offend the dogged traditional mafia,” says Smith. “Highly hydrated, with little leavening, it's a well fermented, elastic dough made modern by its use of excellent ingredients and remarkable precision,” he says, noting it’s perhaps the best example in the city.

Pizzeria Ciarly:

A newcomer for Smith, who notes the reason he visited was solely to see pizza maker, Raf Bonetta. “Living in a middle space between traditional and modern, the pizza I had here is the best pizza I have eaten in Napoli in years,” says Smith. “Immaculate bake, topped judiciously, a cornicione (the Italian word for edge or crust of pizza) at once sweet and nutty, bloomed perfectly, with a crispy eggshell and creamy interior,” he perfectly describes. Bonetta is in the works of opening his pizza place in Pozzuoli, on the western coast of Naples. 

L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele

One of the oldest pizzerias in Naples, founded in 1870 and made more famous in Elizabeth Gilbert’s Eat, Pray, Love. It’s always busy but the joint issues numbered tickets to control the chaos and there are two choices: marinara and margherita. 

Antica Pizzeria Prigiobbo

In Quartieri Spagnol, near ROMEO Hotel, a giant, flashy yellow promotional sign hangs from the alleyway pointing you to the pizzeria as the marketing for this tiny establishment. Otherwise, you’ll walk right by it. Three generations of pizza making later, the spot has no frills, and for a few euros, indulge in a nicely executed Margherita pizza and a beer (or two). And you can watch the two pizzaiolos make pizzas while eating fresh-out-of-the-oven pizza, which is a treat. 

Concettina ai Tre Santi

A friend introduced me to this spot a couple of summers ago and it’s arguably my favorite margherita pizza in Naples, perhaps in the world. Situated in Sanità the lively, insanely busy, and working-class district of Naples, find this spot by way of a lengthy cue — and a pizza bouncer at the door to ensure a smooth experience. A family-run business for over 60 years, Ciro Oliva now runs the show and reimagined the Napoli pizza experience with both heritage and imagination combined in a Michelin-worthy dining experience. It might be whimsical inside but the pizza-making skills are prominent within each bite….simply perfect, every step of the way. *If you’re visiting Capri, they’ve got a summer outpost with insane views.

BURN OFF PIZZA CALORIES:

In early 1787, poet and playwright Johann Wolfgang von Goethe reached Naples for the first time and described it as one of the most beautiful cities in the world. “Vedi Napoli e poi muori,” (“see Naples and die”) were his exact words. My first hike up Pedamentina San Martino, a 14th-century, zig-zagging, 415-tread stone staircase, to Sant'Elmo Castle and the Certosa di San Martino, and this quote made perfect sense. (You’ll want to add this hike into rotation between pizza eating FYI). 

United has direct flights to Naples from a few cities, including NYC, for under $600 RT. I recently wrote this comprehensive (and slightly boring) neighborhood guide to Naples for Hemispheres, for reference. It will give you a lay of the land.

BITCHEN ABOUT:

Trip Consulting

If I received a dollar for every time someone asked to “pick my brain” or for full-on trip planning and recommendations I would be wealthy. I spend my hard-earned peanuts exploring, eating, drinking, making lots of trials and errors, falling in love with specific places, and figuring out how to put all the puzzle pieces together for a perfect trip. Traveling is also my job. I am not a travel agent, I’m a traveler. I specialize in specific areas around the world and no…I don’t want to spend my free time planning your trip and gluing the pieces together for free. If you need trip advice for an area I am well-versed in, I’m stoked to help you (for a consulting fee). 

Happy summering!

xxJenn